Elizabeh White From SLO Country

The more I learn about wine, the less I know.

Structure.
Terroir.
Chewy.
Smoky.
Leather.
Mid-palate.
Malolactic fermentation.
Cult wine.
Food pairing.

Since my self-imposed wino education began three or four years ago in San Luis Obispo County, I feel as if I’ve immersed myself in a new world…and a new language. I carry on with my new-fangled wino terminology that continues to challenge me, forcing me to make use of handy vino books and magazines that sit quietly on my coffee table; and my resolve to stake my claim as a SLO County wine expert continues with no end in sight.

After three or four years of wine immersion in SLO County—even after dozens of winery visits, countless tastings of local varietals, booking wineries into celebrity events for an international film festival, and loads of self-wino education, I am smart enough to realize that I still don’t know a hell of a lot. But maybe that’s okay. After all, isn’t edification a part of life, each sip a stepping stone?

Perhaps I take a step forward with every taste, as I bask in the fruits of the local terroir and continue to find local vines that speak to me. My palate morphs; I find new favorites; I experiment; and I go with my wino instincts. Recently I hosted a small dinner party and frazzled a bit about finding the perfect wines to pair with a lovely appetizer course of sliced baguette that begged to be smothered in assorted cheeses (cow, sheep, and goat), tart olives, fresh farmer’s market veggies, and a zingy citrus dip loaded with fresh garlic and rich olive oil. For the main course: Drunk Chicken (smothered in an intense molé sauce brewed with rich Mexican beer). What SLO County wines could measure up to this miscellany of flavors?

I went with my instincts and headed south to find suitable wines. My first stop led me to Claiborne and Churchill Vintners in the cooler climate of the Edna Valley region (where the more delicate and cooler climate grape varietals such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir thrive). In the slightly heated summer weather, my mind and palate beckoned a cool sipping wine—I took home a bottle of 2009 “Cuvée Elizabeth” Dry Rosé. I then headed even further south to Pismo Beach, and hit up the popular new wine bar, Tastes of the Valleys, that offers myriad choices. After a tasting flight, I allowed my palate’s intuition to lead, and took off with a bottle of Cass Winery’s 2009 Roussanne (produced in San Luis Obispo’s North County).

Both the Rosé and the Roussane were well-received with the starter course, and the Roussanne morphed well into dinner. Its clean, fresh essence didn’t interfere with the rich chicken dish, leaving our palates bright. I suppose I could have relied on one of my wine books for resolved wine-pairing advice, but I’m glad that after three or four years of amateur self-imposed wino education, I know enough to experiment and go with my instincts.

I will go forward, continuing my vino-schooling—bringing my guests and readers everything I know about wine—which isn’t much. But perhaps the less I know is better. Maybe less is more. After all, too much instruction can take away from the fun, the instinctual part of you that knows. I hope you go forward in your own wine education with a bit of instruction…a lot of experimentation…and a tremendous amount of impulse.

Elizabeh White

This weekend our mission was clear: navigating grey skies and a slippery highway with the ultimate intention of pleasing our palates. Cautiously traipsing through the torrential downpour hammering San Luis Obispo County, a fellow wino and foodie friend and I arrived safely at our Paso Robles destination. Rain-spattered, we slogged our way through the parking lot of an industrial center to the home of Barrel 27 Wine Company, welcomed by blustery winds and the pungent scent of fermenting grapes emanating from 800 barrels of their ageing wine.

Entering the tasting room, beset by a high backdrop of round wooden vats, one of Barrel 27’s partners, Jason Carter, soon greeted us in the cool 56?F cellar atmosphere. Over the course of the next hour, not only did he guide us through a flight of several lovely wines, but also graciously allowed us to explore their barrel room, adorned with stainless steel fermentation tanks and splendid French oak casks stacked loftily to the ceiling. Our expectations for their wine already high (as we had both recently stumbled upon some of Barrel 27’s well-balanced creations), we earnestly sipped, swirled and unlocked the nuances of more of their fragrant wines.

Some of the highlights included their beautiful white Rhone blend, 2008 High on the Hog ($15), a balanced blend of creamy Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussane, and splash of Marsanne. Possessing a light golden touch and fresh floral and citrus nose, this silky white left splendid traces of honey and lemon zest, and finished with a hint of mineral essence. Their caramel-blushed 2005 Central Coast Rosé of Syrah ($13) exuded light berry aromas. Our first sip produced a dense acid feel, soon toning down to allow the spicy layers to unfold. Smoky orange and berry undertones brought this food friendly wine to a balanced close.

Our next splash brought us their 2007 Rock and a Hard Place Grenache ($23). With captivating fresh garnet and violet affects and a dense blueberry nose, the flavors changed as our hands warmed up the glasses in this cellar-like temperature. Alluring notes of chocolate, blueberry, and charcoal warmed our palates, leaving a rich finish of orange rind and citrus. Their complex 2006 Right Hand Man, Central Coast Syrah ($18), exuded a deep, luscious plum tone and wafted of dried cherries. Possessing smooth notes of toasted vanilla, plums, currants and mocha, their signature wine left a light peppery and raspberry finish.

The nuances of their 2007 Hand Over Fist ($30), a sophisticated Rhone-style blend of 52% Syrah, 29% Grenache, and 19% Mourvedre, resulted in a beautiful shade of intense black plums, with a light jammy nose hinting of lavender and plum. This lovely fruit medley boasted currants, cherries, orange and chocolate, with a lasting mineral finish. This new release of their first Rhone-style blend proved dense and bold. Their 2006 Bull by the Horns ($32) also attested to Barrel 27’s ability to construct unified, intense blends. This concoction of well-tamed Petite Verdot, Syrah, and Tempranillo grabbed us with its concentrated dark cherry tones, its spicy nose of currants and cocoa, and its perfectly blended layers of chocolate, blueberry, cloves, and vanilla yet peppery finish.
At the end of the day, my fellow wino (who happens to be a former Southern Wine and Spirits executive and has been involved in the wine industry for twenty years) declared Barrel 27’s wines stunning. I couldn’t agree more. In spite of the ghastly weather and feeling stuck between a rock and hard place, we found our right hand man, sipped hand over fist, rode high on the hog, grabbed the bull by the horns and discovered more outstanding well-crafted SLO County wines. Mission accomplished.

Visit http://barrel27.com for more information about their own mission.